Tasting of Co-op Fairtrade Wines: Argentina v South Africa


It was fun to be reassessing the current range of Fairtrade wines available from your local Co-op store. The option to support the healthcare and educational needs of a local community in South Africa or Argentina is an added bonus to enjoying their wines (in moderation of course). I was able to join Bishop Mark, himself a great fair-trade advocate, at a recent event in Newcastle’s Royal Station Hotel which turned out to be part wine tasting, part quiz night – I came away with a nice set of felt-tipped pens! And we didn’t mention the World Cup Rugby match (the one South Africa won).

Hard at work tasting with the Bishop!

The wines range in price from £3.99 to £5.99 per bottle, although it’s wise to look out for in-store special offers. Four red and four white wines were shown. Generally the red wines received a more positive response, although this may reflect an increasing interest in the ripe, full bodied styles that they represent. And, no, there is no medical evidence to say that red wine is better for you than other forms of alcohol, just more enjoyable for many of us.

We started with a Cape Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (2007) from the Du Toitskloof Co-operative in South Africa (the origin of all the South African wines). This had a wonderful grapefruit bouquet, spicy mineral overtones on the palate, and a slightly brief aftertaste - ideal with ratatouille. I preferred the Argentinian Pinot Grigio (2007) which followed, with its floral, grapey, perfumed smell more reminiscent of a muscat wine, and with a rounded flavour well suited to Thai or Chinese cuisine. We returned to the Cape for the Chenin Blanc/Colombard (2007) combination of grape varieties. I smelt honeysuckle, but struggled to taste much fruitiness, feeling it lacked a little ripeness, and the end was very dry. Back to the Argentine La Riojana Co-operative for the last white wine, a mix of Torrontes/Chardonnay (2007). This had an aromatic ‘nose’, mineral and citrus flavours, and a good persistent finish to its tasting. I liked it, and thought it would go well with fish and vegetarian dishes. So Argentina came out on top for me at this point.

The reds started with two fine Argentinian efforts. The organic Malbec (2005) was my best red, benefitting from a couple of years to mature in the bottle. This had allowed the oak to settle in nicely, the ripe malbec fruit balanced by some tannin. This was a dark, chewy wine with plum and black cherry flavours, and was still improving. Good with sausages, I thought! The Shiraz (2007) was made in a much more modern style, ‘easy drinking’ with not much tannin evident. Slightly peppery, with berry and currant nuances, this is a wine to try on its own, or with lighter dishes. South Africa followed with a Cabernet Sauvignon (2006). The Western Cape may have been hot in 2006, as the wine exhibits somewhat roasted flavours, suggesting the vines (and grapes) struggled a bit. At 14% alcohol, I felt the wine unbalanced, but that it might go well with a barbecue. The final wine restored South Africa’s reputation with a dense, full flavoured Cinsault/Shiraz (2007). You find these two grape varieties in France’s Rhône Valley, as well as in Australia. This version pleased with its ripe berry fruit and good aftertaste. A wine to serve with winter stews.

So on this showing I had the overall score in favour of Argentina, a reversal of the semi-final rugby match result. However, wine tasting (and drinking) is a very personal matter, and you might come up with quite the opposite finding. So a good excuse to try out the range of wines for yourself, and see who is right!