A Pomerol evening with Christian Moueix
It was great to meet up again with Christian Moueix, the king of Pomerol, at a Wine Society tasting in London. The venue was the Merchant Taylors' Hall, the date 19 November, and the subject 'Stars of the Right Bank'. I sat with Cherise Moueix and Julia Harding, so I could catch up with the latest views from the coal face, as it were. Christian provided a map of the Pomerol area in question, so we were all able to work out the geography.
The wines presented were all from the clay and gravel
plateau of Pomerol, except for Château Lafleur-Pétrus which has no clay. And
also, unsurprisingly, there was no Château Pétrus on display – far too
grand and limited in production, although we were treated to Château Lafleur,
which often gives it a run for its money. The tasting began with three wines
from the 1999 vintage, including Château La Providence, bought by the Moueix
family business that year, but too late to alter what had happened in the
vineyard before the vintage. It is now named simply Château Providence, so you
look it up in the 'P' section of the wine list (as opposed to wondering if it's
in 'L' or 'P'). Château Hosanna was also shown, a property also having been
purchased (as Château Certan-Giraud) in the same year. The change of name
reflected the new management, the desire to reflect the church-related names of
so many Pomerol properties, and the desire to produce a feminine version of Pétrus
(with a name ending in 'a'). Its superb situation on the plateau suggests that
this latter idea is a real possibility.
Only one wine came from the 1998 vintage, a favourite vintage for Christian when they picked in perfect conditions at the perfect time. This was a triumph in the form of Lafleur-Pétrus. The three 1995s reflected this vintage's excellent development from early promise. Here the interest concerned how the mostly merlot based wine (L'Évangile) compared with the two with significant amounts of Cabernet Franc (La Conseillante and Lafleur). This debate continued with the three 1990s, especially as Vieux Château Certan has both Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in its make up. For me, this was the challenge of the evening, as the varying terroirs and grape mixes played out their expressions in a series of lovely wines.
Château La Providence (1999) Quite evolved, looks mature. Perfumed Merlot nose, spicy. Full in the mouth, dense, no great finesse. Pleasant to drink now. 14+
Château Gazin (1999) Less developed, maturing. Roasted 'syrah' nose. Soft fruit and medium tannins. Tasty and refreshing. 15
Château Hosanna (1999) More closed. Real breed and complexity. Lingering finish, chocolate from the Cabernet Franc. 16+
Château Lafleur-Pétrus (1998) Wonderful ripe berry fruits, with a pure expression of Merlot. Wonderful balance and harmony. Tannins ripe and integrated. A fine wine. 17+
Château La Conseillante (1995) Colour developing. Less intense nose. Elegant but lacking concentration and grip (no second wine). A charmer. 16
Château Trotanoy (1995) Wonderful perfume on nose. Structure and intense, ripe fruit evident. Tannins softening. An appealing wine. 17+
Château Lafleur (1995) Lovely Cabernet Franc perfume on nose. Vivid, lively, ripe fruit and spice in the mouth. Complexity and great length. Tannic. Needs time. 18
Château Latour-à-Pomerol (1990) Mature colour.' Old wine' nose with lavender overtones (Julia). Full in the mouth. Nice wine with soft sweet fruit. 17
Château L'Évangile (1990) Moving to maturity. Very Merlot nose. Dense and complex. Ripe bordering on over-ripe fruit. Appealing and long. 18+
Vieux Château Certan (1990) Less developed than the above 90s. Nose restrained cabernet overtones. Great structure, with evident ripe tannin. Vivid fruit, superb length. 18+
It was great to meet up again with Christian Moueix, the king of Pomerol, at a Wine Society tasting in London. The venue was the Merchant Taylors' Hall, the date 19 November, and the subject 'Stars of the Right Bank'. I sat with Cherise Moueix and Julia Harding, so I could catch up with the latest views from the coal face, as it were. Christian provided a map of the Pomerol area in question, so we were all able to work out the geography.
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Looking across to Pomerol on an autumn morning
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Only one wine came from the 1998 vintage, a favourite vintage for Christian when they picked in perfect conditions at the perfect time. This was a triumph in the form of Lafleur-Pétrus. The three 1995s reflected this vintage's excellent development from early promise. Here the interest concerned how the mostly merlot based wine (L'Évangile) compared with the two with significant amounts of Cabernet Franc (La Conseillante and Lafleur). This debate continued with the three 1990s, especially as Vieux Château Certan has both Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in its make up. For me, this was the challenge of the evening, as the varying terroirs and grape mixes played out their expressions in a series of lovely wines.
Château La Providence (1999) Quite evolved, looks mature. Perfumed Merlot nose, spicy. Full in the mouth, dense, no great finesse. Pleasant to drink now. 14+
Château Gazin (1999) Less developed, maturing. Roasted 'syrah' nose. Soft fruit and medium tannins. Tasty and refreshing. 15
Château Hosanna (1999) More closed. Real breed and complexity. Lingering finish, chocolate from the Cabernet Franc. 16+
Château Lafleur-Pétrus (1998) Wonderful ripe berry fruits, with a pure expression of Merlot. Wonderful balance and harmony. Tannins ripe and integrated. A fine wine. 17+
Château La Conseillante (1995) Colour developing. Less intense nose. Elegant but lacking concentration and grip (no second wine). A charmer. 16
Château Trotanoy (1995) Wonderful perfume on nose. Structure and intense, ripe fruit evident. Tannins softening. An appealing wine. 17+
Château Lafleur (1995) Lovely Cabernet Franc perfume on nose. Vivid, lively, ripe fruit and spice in the mouth. Complexity and great length. Tannic. Needs time. 18
Château Latour-à-Pomerol (1990) Mature colour.' Old wine' nose with lavender overtones (Julia). Full in the mouth. Nice wine with soft sweet fruit. 17
Château L'Évangile (1990) Moving to maturity. Very Merlot nose. Dense and complex. Ripe bordering on over-ripe fruit. Appealing and long. 18+
Vieux Château Certan (1990) Less developed than the above 90s. Nose restrained cabernet overtones. Great structure, with evident ripe tannin. Vivid fruit, superb length. 18+